Making Toy Fenders:
To make fenders for wooden toys make it twice as thick as it needs to be and then cut it in half.
Regards, Darryl Yeager (EASY TO LOVE TOYS)
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Cleaning Sawblades:
Many times when a sawblade seems to be dull it only needs cleaned.
Use an Oven Cleaner to clean the blade. Spray on and let set for about 5 minutes then wipe clean.
Try this it really works!!!
Regards, Darryl Yeager (EASY TO LOVE TOYS)
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Bandsaw Cutting:
If you have had problems trying to cut items out on a bandsaw try this.
When you want to make a curved cut start to turn the piece you are cutting just a little before you get to the curve.
This will allow you to follow the curve much better.
Regards, Darryl Yeager (EASY TO LOVE TOYS)
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Thin Wood:
If you have ever needed thin wood 1/4" 3/16" etc. you know it is hard to find.
Make your own by using a bandsaw and slicing the wood into strips. A 3/4" board will yield Two 1/4" boards after it is cut.
You can finish the cut side by using a planer, jointer, or sander. This takes a little getting use to but it does work.
Regards, Darryl Yeager (EASY TO LOVE TOYS)
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Cutting a Notch with a Bandsaw:
If you have had to cut a Notch in a piece of wood try this.
Use the bandsaw to make a cut on each side of the notch. 
Now make a series of cuts to the debth that you want. Remove all pieces of wood.
Use the edge of the blade as a sander to make the bottom of the cut smooth.  Move work back & fourth across blade teeth.
Regards, Darryl Yeager (EASY TO LOVE TOYS)
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Making Mirrored Pieces:
Put two pieces of wood together temporarly with Glue & Paper. I use a spray adhesive and newspaper.
Place the paper between the two pieces of wood, this will prevent the wood from bonding and allow you to get it apart.
Shape the outside of the two pieces and then use a sharp knife to take them apart.
Finish the inside of the pieces. This works well for things like Fenders and Airplane Wings.
Regards, Darryl Yeager (EASY TO LOVE TOYS)
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Making Airplane Guns:
Use Two different sizes of Dowell Rod Ezample 1/4" and 1/8"
Drill hole in end of larger dowell that will accept the smaller dowell size.
Insert the smaller dowell into the larger dowell and cut to length. Example
Regards, Darryl Yeager (EASY TO LOVE TOYS)
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Animal Patterns:
Animal patterns seem to be at a premium.
I have logged onto the internet and searched for animals.
You can find lots of pictures.
Save the animal pictures off of the internet, print them, and use them for patterns. Just a thought!!
Regards, Darryl Yeager (EASY TO LOVE TOYS)
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Saw Blade Grind:
The Triple chip grind is used exclusively in combination with other profiles, usually the flat top grind, to mimic the scoring action of a two blade scoring saw. The top of the triple chip is slightly higher than the other teeth allowing it to precut brittle materials prone to chipping.
The Flat top grind is primarily a rip cut profile, although it is used on thin kerf blades for general purpose cutting, and economy blades because it is easier to sharpen.
The Alternate bevel top is a general purpose grind used primarily for crosscutting hardwoods and softwoods. Its sharp corners score the wood, resulting in a clean cut.
Regards, Darryl Yeager (EASY TO LOVE TOYS)
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Saw Blade Kerf:
Standard blades, because of the thicker plate, are inherently stiffer and less prone to vibrations that reduce “Cut-quality”. This is particularly important when cutting thick materials.
At the expense of cut-quality, thin kerf blades were originally designed to provide “added horsepower” to underpowered saws by reducing the amount of material removed.
Today with new technology there is very little difference in the cutting quality of either blade and the Thin Kerf Blade can save material.
Regards, Darryl Yeager (EASY TO LOVE TOYS)
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Lathe Vibration:
I came accross a new tip for me the other day, it may be that some other
woodturners are having the same trouble. I was turning a spindle and was
having a lot of trouble with, shimmy, or vibration, or shaking, (whatever
you call it) in the middle of the spindle, about 48 inches long. There was
no way I could get the wood smooth until I spoke to an old hand, turning for
about 40 years, and he said if I reduced the speed of the lathe down to
about 800 revs then this should get rid of the vibration. I was turning at
about 1100 revs, and when I reduced the speed I was able to finish off and
make the spindle nice and smooth.
This may be something that all the other turners already know, but other new
chums like myself need to find out these things.
Hope this may be of help to some others.
Regards, John Twemlow
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BURNING ON TIGHT TURNS:
When cutting oak or other hard woods on a scrowl saw my wife and I were having trouble with burning on tight turns.
We were ready to give up on hard woods. Then after we glued the pattern on the wood we put clear packing tape over the pattern.
I could not beleve it no more burning. I think it lubes the blade or something.
but it works perfect.
Regards, Jim McGee
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PREVENT WOOD COLOR CHANGE:
You can help to prevent color change in wood by using (UltraViolent) inhibiting type finishing materials.
This is the type of change that we see in Cherry when it is exposed to sunlight.
Regards, Charles Hunt
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ALTERNATIVE TO BURNING WITH WOODEN DOWELL ROD:
I found dowels to give off a bit too much smoke, especially
when my daughter and grand kids living with me were upstairs when the
smoke detector went off in the basement.
To resolve the problem, I ground down some worn out and broken drill
bits of varying diameters. Some were ground down to a cone while others
were ground to a spherical round on the end. I can make more than twice
as many burns without setting off the smoke detector.
Recently I got really cute and took one that was ground to a spherical
radius and used a carbide drill to bore into the center about 1/8th
inch. The bore in the center was about half the diameter of the drill
shank used, in this case ½". This makes a dark ring with a light
colored "pupil" in the center.
Regards, Richard C. Roth, Ph.D.
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INSTALLING HANDRAILS AND SPINDLES DOWN A STAIRCASE:
When your ready to drill the ¾" holes in the bottom of the hand rail to receive the round spindles, you normally determine the angle or pitch of the stairs so you can drill the holes at that same angle. Instead of getting out your measuring tools, simply lay the handrail down the stair steps. Then plumb, drill and your done!
There is no need to replicate or determine any angles at all! The stair steps provided this angle for you.
Regards, Mark Chapman
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GLUE APPLICATOR:
Everybody uses foam brushes, but when you are done with them and before you throw it away.
Try pealing off the foam head and it leaves a great glue applicator. For those hard to reach areas.
Regards, Curtis Wall
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Re-Sawing on a Bandsaw:
The following is a list the steps that I use to resaw lumber. I resaw a lot of wood because I need lumber that has a finished demsion of 1/4" to 3/8" thick.
1. I use a 4tpi or 6tpi 3/8 inch blade. I have found that either Skip or Hook tooth blades work best. I have ReSawed with a 1/4" blade but it gives me more trouble that the 3/8" blade does.
2. Remove the gate it only hinders.
3. Set the tension to the normal setting for the size blade you are using. There is usually a guage on the back side of the saw near the tension adjustment. If not keep the tension fairly high. You should be able to just flex the blade when you put side pressure on it. Machine should be turned off!!
4. I use all Rough Cut Lumber and surface it myself.
5. When ReSawing I start with lumber that has been surfaced on both sides.
6. I use my finger as a guide point for the lumber. I start the lumber into the blade and then place my finger along side of the board. This gives me a pivot point to guide the blade from. Lumber will both Lead and Tail when you are resawing it. By using your finger you are able to move the board left and right when sawing it. 
7. BE SURE YOU HAVE A NEW SHARP BLADE. THIS IS CRITICAL BECAUSE EVEN IF THE BLADE IS A LITTLE DULL WILL CAUSE THE BLADE TO FLEX AND RUN OFF.
Regards, Darryl Yeager (EASY TO LOVE TOYS)
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MAKING PATTERN CUTTING EASIER:
To make pattern cutting easier, I trace them on to freezer paper, then place them on the wood, waxed side down...
A warm iron will cause them to adhere, then after cutting, another use of the iron takes them off easily.
Regards, Dawg McDermid
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